As seems to have become the norm, it's been a couple weeks since I last wrote, but rest assured it was not for a lack of experiences! In fact, the last couple weeks have been been jam packed with most free time dedicated to the search for a new apartment. As aggravating and time consuming as this process proved to be, it has in fact been a really wonderful way to get to know the city. I can now locate nearly every major neighborhood, tell you which ones have easily accessible public transport, and roughly how much it costs to live there. In addition, I got a chance to see quite a few areas from the back of my housemate's motorcycle, which has drastically improved my understanding of traffic patterns in the complex and often inanely complicated system of one way streets, rivers, canals, highways and metro overpasses that make up the city of Medellin.
That said, it's still no fun to look through thousands of advertisements, pick out a couple dozen, make the requisite inquiries and end up with a short list of 3 or 4 visits. Of the 5 or 6 places I personally saw, only 3 were livable. Of those, 2 were beautiful, but in terrible locations and the third was way over budget. Luckily, my housemates stumbled upon one that seemed to have everything going for it at the end of last week, and we rushed to get the papers signed. Or rather, we tried to rush to get the papers signed.
I'm still not exactly clear as to what papers we ended up needing precisely, but since barely anyone uses a credit card and banks are just where you go to cash checks, there's no such thing as a credit check to assure the validity of a potential renter's ability to pay. Instead, you must get someone who has a certificate of ownership for a vehicle to sign on your behalf, as well as someone who owns their own house. I think there might have been a few other requirements, but those were the ones that stuck. Each of those people has to receive the original, hard copy of the appropriate form directly from the leasing agency, sign it, fingerprint it, and return it. In our case, this meant sending half the paperwork as quickly as we could (24-36hrs depending on the day and time) to V's parent's in Bogota, and the other half had to be driven out to R's cousin an hour outside of town.
Then we waited 2 days, hoping for good news. On the second day we called to determine whether our application had been accepted. Well, not quite yet. Apparently the central headquarters for the government agency responsible for leases had attempted to call our references, but had only gotten through to one, as the other works on a flower farm in the middle of nowhere and doesn't have reliable cell phone service. Naturally, we asked whether he could call them instead so we could resolve the issue the same day. Nope. That particular office seems to not have a phone number, despite having the sole responsibility of calling and confirming references. They kindly informed us that they would go down the list one more time the following day, but that if our reference didn't answer at that precise moment, our application would be denied.
Having no back up apartment on the books and with no more time to go through the whole papershuffling extravaganza again, all we could to was to cross our fingers and hope. Late the following day, by some miracle our reference managed to receive the precious phone call, passed all inspections and our application was accepted as of today. Well, almost. We're accepted, but now we have to get the same 2 people to sign (and fingerprint) the lease. So, we've send off all the appropriate forms and are once again awaiting with bated breath, hoping the gods of mail delivery shine upon us. With the best of luck, we should have the keys late tmw. With not such good luck, well, let's not think about that option.
Thursday, June 30, 2011
Sunday, June 12, 2011
Coastal Encounters
Alright, I know it's been a while since I wrote, but I've had a good excuse, I've been out and about making sure my parent's enjoyed they're 10 day stay here in Colombia! It was a short trip, but we managed to pack quite a bit in including most of the major tourist sights in Medellin, a quick trip to Barranquilla and a weekend in Cartagena (both of which are on the Caribbean coast and consequently muggy and exceedingly warm). But, before we get ahead of ourselves, let's talk about Medellin.
My parents arrived on Sunday night, which worked out perfectly other than the hour delay due to the loss of one piece of luggage. Luckily it only contained things I had asked them to bring, all of which I could easily live without for another week. So, after filling out all the appropriate forms, we haggled for a cab and made our way down into the valley. That night was spent sipping beers and catching up before we all called it a night.
Now, I had asked for Thurs and Friday off from work so we could all go to the coast, but I still had to work Mon-Weds, which meant my parents would have to wander the city on their own for a bit. Luckily, being seasoned travelers, I wasn't too worried about sending them off to fend for themselves. Unfortunately, both the places I tried to send them on their first day here turned out to be closed. Whoops.
Equipped with a map and not afraid to ask around, they did finally manage to find a museum that was open, and which happened to be free for the day. They also somehow managed to stumble upon quite a few depictions of naked ladies along their way. Not something I can say I'd really noticed until I flipped through their photos, but maybe the museums are on to something with boobs leading the way to their doorsteps (or adorning their door)...
By the time my parents arrived at my university they were in high spirits. I showed them around the lovely campus I spend my days at before we headed up to El Poblado for a bite to eat.
The next day went a little smoother on the sight seeing front while I frantically tried to wrap up all my obligations in preparation for our Weds afternoon departure. We even managed to sneak in a lunch together at the Botanical gardens, which was quite lovely. However, Tues night happened to be host an NBA finals game, so we wound up back in El Poblado since it was the only place I could guarantee a broadcast. The place was super noisy with a soccer game vying for the crowd's attention, but the NBA game held it's own with a neck to neck run.
On Weds afternoon we were scheduled to fly to Barranquilla where I had been invited to meet the dean of the new school of architecture at Uninorte. However, every time I mentioned to anyone here that my parents and I would be going to Barranquilla I was met with the same confused expression and statements like "what're you going there for?" and "but there's nothing to do there." We tried to keep our own hopes up, but as we rode a taxi into town, it was hard to banish the feeling of desolate waste that seems to prevail over much of the city. Once a bustling hub and still the largest sea port in Colombia, this sprawling city somehow managed to miss the boat. Or maybe it just fell off somewhere along the way.
The hotel my dad had booked was in the historic old city, just a block from what appeared to be a beautiful cathedral full of stained glass. Unfortunately, this district's glory days were far gone. The hotel we stayed in had gorgeous tile work, arching colonnades, gilded ceilings and a picturesque lap pool with a sculpted crocodile keeping guard, but the room's mini fridge had dark stains of mold, the air conditioner was older than any of us, and, as luck would have it, the entire municipal water system was shut down for 24hrs. The street we stayed on was lined with gargantuan mansions with curved drives and ample gardens where weeds pushed through the asphalt and shuttered windows stared blankly at the passing cars.
When we tried to go see the cathedral in the morning, we walked the entire perimeter without encountering a single open entrance other than the patchwork of holes where intricate stain glass panels had been knocked out. Figuring there had to be something else to do in the city, we went across the street to a new-looking (and thankfully air conditioned) mall and asked around for a map of the city. We continued to ask around for a map for the following hour, entirely without success. Guess they don't get many tourists in these parts.
We finally had to give up the quest for a pictorial presentation of our new surrounds in favor of a long taxi ride north to the university. As we made our way up through the city, it became clear that much of the affluence is to be found in the newer districts of the northern sector. By the time we got to the Uninorte campus we had passed through the entire city and found ourselves looking out at the coast over a lush bed of foliage.
The afternoon turned out to be quite pleasant as we shared lunch with two lovely ladies with whom a friend had put us in touch. One of them had to take off early, but the other, who was young, bright and full of interesting stories, took us on a tour of the campus and told us all about their recent activities. An hour or so later she handed me off to the dean of the school of architecture, who explained that they had just opened the program and were wrapping up their very first semester. Curious to see what this entailed, I asked to see some of the student's work and was rewarded with a thorough presentation of a variety of projects from mosaics to sprinkler sculptures to single family homes.
By the time we got back into the city, it was nearly time for dinner, so we did not freshen up since there was no running water, but we did enjoy a few moments of cool air before deciding to try out a restaurant that the grocery announcer had recommended when we befriended him during our search for a map. We hailed a taxi, negotiated our price (there are no meters!) and headed off. Luckily, the driver knew the place we were looking for and drove us in past a slew of other restaurants, 2 of which were on our list of recommendations from various friends. Not wanting to miss out on the atmosphere, we checked out a few menus before deciding on the BBQ place we'd originally aimed for. Man, was that a good choice! We only ordered 2 full meals between the 3 of us, but we ended up taking home a stack of leftovers nonetheless. Everything was super tasty with new and intriguing combinations of flavors. On top of that, they also happened to have a TV in the corner, and were more than willing to switch it to the NBA playoffs at our request. 2 for 2 on catching the games!
Since it had become abundantly clear that there wasn't a whole lot to keep us in Barranquilla, we arranged for an early morning taxi to Cartagena on Friday. The ride out was quite scenic with the road winding through rainforest and occasionally offering glimpses of the shore we were paralleling. An hour or so later we rolled into what I believe is the oldest colonial city in Colombia (maybe in S.America?).
All around the historic core highrise apartments and luxury hotels dominate the landscape, but we had opted for a spot just outside the main walls, but still within the city center. Well, we thought we'd opted for that hotel, but there was a bit of a miscommunication and between the fact that they were asking double what we'd anticipated and that the 2nd bed I was to sleep on was really a cot set up at the bottom of the real bed, we decided we'd have to look again. While my mom guarded our luggage, my dad and I set out into the still unbelievably warm, sticky morning in search of a different abode. The first place we tried brought flashbacks to our days of backpacking in China and didn't seem quite like the relaxing weekend we were hoping for. Luckily, the second place we passed turned out to be quite quaint and have a suitable, if tiny room available. Just as we were about to take it, the proprietress mentioned they had a sister hotel around the corner that might suit use better for only a slightly higher price. Not wanted to turn down what could be a good option, we followed the doorman around the corner and were greeted with a lovely, large, clean, air conditioned room. They still didn't have hot water, but since the air temperature didn't seem to get below boiling, we figured we could handle that minor inconvenience.
Once we'd settled in and waited out the worst of the heat, we took a stroll into the old city, which is nearly entirely surrounded by a 39ft (10m) thick stone wall. Despite the oppressive heat, the city was quite stunning. Every turn yielded a new view or a pretty little square and the view from top of the wall was beautiful.
On the way out, we even managed to catch some dancing in the streets!
We were hoping to also catch some nice beach time while we were this close, but the city beaches didn't seem to offer much in the way of the tropical experience. So, we spent the next couple hours trying to figure out how to get to Playa Blanca for a few hours. The answer turned out to be, you can't. In fact, the only way to get to Playa Blanca, even if they tell you otherwise when you buy your ticket, is to take either a fast or slow boat out to Isla Rosario, spend a few hours there and then go to Playa Blanca. Having exhausted all possible alternative options, short of renting our own boat for over $100, we had to face that fact that if we wanted to get to a beach, we'd have to suck it up and buy the tour.
Annoyed with the restricted access and overly touristy set up, we gave up just as the sky turned pink. We quite happily enjoyed the pretty sunset over the water before heading back for some tasty grub and a good night's rest.
The next morning mom and I woke up early, bought our tickets, said not to all 5 hawkers who tried to solicit us with tickets on our way down to the dock, paid the dock fee, found the guy who was to get us on a fast boat, and took our seats. Over an hour later, after we had watched nearly every other boat in the area fill up and take off, we were finally on board.
As we made our way out of the bay, we were greeted with a few of the 'new' city and the bustling industrial district. About 10mins into the ride, we found ourselves pulling up to shore in front of a nondescript dock at what appeared to be someone's backyard. A little confused, but happy to see a small glimpse of the 'real' Cartagena, we took it in while a young man jumped aboard and we headed back out to sea. A few moments later, it became clear that our new passenger was a volunteer guide. As a large fort came into view, he politely informed us that this was Bocagrande, matched by a similar fort on the other side and built by the Spaniards to protect the entrance to their vital port city.
As we were all admiring the scenery, this young gentleman rowed up next to us and informed everyone that if they felt the desire to throw coins into the water, he would gladly display his skills as a swimmer by catching them in his mouth....
This proved to be mildly amusing, if slight disturbing, for a few moments before we took off at breakneck speed into the open ocean. And I mean, BREAK-NECK speed. Now, I've been on my fair share of boat rides, including a few rather questionable ones during journeys to and from Bluefields. Not once have I ever felt quite as terrified nor as physically wracked as on this particular ride. The boat would literally get air as it peaked over the crest of choppy waves and then come slamming down with a violent jolt as we careened across the water. The fact that we had chosen the second row certainly didn't help much, but judging by the hysterical laughter mixed with nervous screams that came from the rest of the boat, I'm not sure it made much difference were you sat.
One white-knuckled hour later we finally slowed down as we approached a series of small islands. Some islands were populated by homes built in every style imaginable while others were simply small stretches of beach with a few huts scattered about. As we pulled up to our destination, an island with an aquarium that apparently included a dolphin show, our volunteer guide informed us that we now had 3 options. We could pay 20,000COP (~$10) to go see the aquarium, walk the perimeter of the very small island for free, or pay another 25,000COP to stay on the boat and go snorkeling. A little peeved that there were more fees involved, but not particularly interested in walking around a tiny, overgrown island for an hour, we opted to stay on the boat.
They took us back around to a small bay we had passed on our way in, laid anchor and informed everyone that it didn't matter whether you could swim, or had ever snorkeled, they would be taking everyone on a 'guided tour' of the coral, some of which was rumored to change color if you touched it. After a short shouting match with a couple who had brought their own gear, and hence didn't feel that they should be paying any additional fees, we all hopped into the thigh-high water and tried out the masks we'd been given (there were no fins provided). As I got my mask on and swam about a little, I was minorly perturbed to see a large, spikey sea anemone only a few feet from where our host and directed us to jump down into the water. As I came up to check on mom, I found her struggling to keep water out of the mask she had been given. 10 tries later it was clear that the mask was defective, so we handed it back to the boatman and asked for a different one. He tried out the mask himself, realized it was broken, but didn't have any more in his boat. So, he solicited 2 nearby boats asking to swap it out. Neither was interested, so he turned back to us and informed us there was nothing wrong with the mask. Really?! Luckily we had brought along our own goggles in anticipation of some swimming, so mom switched out the mask for googles, kept the snorkel and we headed off.
As we started swimming we were greeted with gorgeous coral formations separated by sandy white shallows. Unfortunately, as we approached our group we came across several people standing and walking directly across the fragile formations. Others were hanging onto an orange life preserver ring while reaching out and attempting to touch the soft wavering tips of the coral below. Not wanting any part of such destruction and pretty sure we'd see a whole lot more the further we got from the swirling mass of bodies with whom we were supposed to be 'guided', we quickly chose the opposite direction and swam off on our own.
As soon as we got into a calmer section, we were rewarded with the sight of an enormous flounder resting peacefully on the sand. A few strokes away we spotted a large lobster just visible within it's rocky abode. Just when I thought it couldn't get much better, I looked down to see a small flounder who was nearly invisible lying on the white sand. In a flash it had moved off to a rockier section where to my surprise and delight dark spots began to appear on the flounders back and in a few seconds it was the exact shade and pattern of the place it had landed! We had definitely made the right choice when we opted for snorkeling.
Over the next hour or so we happily flitted about following deep canyons between coral mountains that come up to just inches below the surface. On the deeper side I spotted a huge silver fish that resembled a small shark who had gone through a laundry press. The thing was less than an inch thick over the whole length of it's 3 or 4 foot body. I followed for a bit until I lost him in a huge school of tuna lazing about dear the surface. When I had got my fill of the big game, I turned around to see a train of blue and yellow fish followed by hundreds of a smaller, less brilliant variety. The whole group was strung out over maybe 20 ft or so and the moved fluidly along, bumping up and down in rhythm with the coral formations below.
For as far as we could swim we were met with an abundance of life in every hue, size and shape imaginable. The only mar on this magnificent underwater experience were the numerous motorboats that brought droves of tourists right into the heart of this pristine wilderness only to plunk them down on top of the fragile existence they were so eager to see, leaving bald edges and broken limbs in their wake.
When we finally got back to the boat, elated and full of pretty images, we were not particularly shocked to see that nearly all our fellow travelers had cuts on their feet and violent red welts on their hands from their overly physical encounters with the wilderness below. Slightly vindicated but still a little sad to see that this wonderland has little chance of surviving in it's current awe inspiring state without severe changes in mentality, we soon found ourselves bouncing back across the water on the way to our final destination of the day, Playa Blanca. Everyone I had talked to in Medellin said this was the best beach around, and we were excited to see for ourselves.
The boat came around a point and there ahead of us was a sweeping arc of white sand for as far as the eye could see. Palm trees and coconuts marched along creating a waving green backdrop to the pretty blue ocean below. As we came a little closer, it became clear that nature was not the only inhabitant of this particular location. The minute the boat's nose touched the sand there were at least 30 hawkers swarming about trying to sell fresh oysters, massages, shell necklaces, piña coladas and anything else you could possibly imagine anyone might want.
Pushing through the crowds, we made our way to a series of wooden tables and benches laid out so we could consume a tasty meal of whole fish, rice and salad. The moment the last morsel had been swallowed, the troops moved in, poking and prodding, proffering and offering. It was clear there would not be much relaxing to be done on the shore, so we walked out a little ways and escaped into the ocean. The water was perfect, just on the coolly refreshing side with soft sand to dig your toes into.
And the beach was in fact rather stunningly beautiful once you got past all the economically driven molestation.
Another short, bumpy ride brought us back to the city and a delicious seafood dinner. The following morning was our last in Cartagena, so we decided to check out the history museum, which happened to be housed in the former house of the Inquisition. The general history portion might have been more enthralling had they chosen to use the airconditioners installed in each room, or at the very least turned on the fans. As it was, the sweat was dripping so fast if was very hard to stand still and focus on the in depth history lessons displayed on each wall. However, the building itself was rather stunning, and the exhibit of the implements of the inquisition, though quite creepy was also rather fascinating.
That afternoon we caught a plane back to the blessedly cool hills of Medellín and were back home with just enough time to head out and catch the last half of that evening's bball game. Looking back on the trip, I certainly came away with mixed feelings about the notoriously enchanting city of Cartagena. On one hand the history, architecture, setting and surrounds of the city are all truly stunning. On the other hand, the blatant orientation towards tourism seems to have dampened some of the true spirit of the place. I'm very glad to have visited, but I can't say I'd jump at going back unless I had the privilege of being accompanied by someone familiar with the place who had their own car, or better yet, their own boat!
My parents arrived on Sunday night, which worked out perfectly other than the hour delay due to the loss of one piece of luggage. Luckily it only contained things I had asked them to bring, all of which I could easily live without for another week. So, after filling out all the appropriate forms, we haggled for a cab and made our way down into the valley. That night was spent sipping beers and catching up before we all called it a night.
Now, I had asked for Thurs and Friday off from work so we could all go to the coast, but I still had to work Mon-Weds, which meant my parents would have to wander the city on their own for a bit. Luckily, being seasoned travelers, I wasn't too worried about sending them off to fend for themselves. Unfortunately, both the places I tried to send them on their first day here turned out to be closed. Whoops.
Equipped with a map and not afraid to ask around, they did finally manage to find a museum that was open, and which happened to be free for the day. They also somehow managed to stumble upon quite a few depictions of naked ladies along their way. Not something I can say I'd really noticed until I flipped through their photos, but maybe the museums are on to something with boobs leading the way to their doorsteps (or adorning their door)...
The next day went a little smoother on the sight seeing front while I frantically tried to wrap up all my obligations in preparation for our Weds afternoon departure. We even managed to sneak in a lunch together at the Botanical gardens, which was quite lovely. However, Tues night happened to be host an NBA finals game, so we wound up back in El Poblado since it was the only place I could guarantee a broadcast. The place was super noisy with a soccer game vying for the crowd's attention, but the NBA game held it's own with a neck to neck run.
On Weds afternoon we were scheduled to fly to Barranquilla where I had been invited to meet the dean of the new school of architecture at Uninorte. However, every time I mentioned to anyone here that my parents and I would be going to Barranquilla I was met with the same confused expression and statements like "what're you going there for?" and "but there's nothing to do there." We tried to keep our own hopes up, but as we rode a taxi into town, it was hard to banish the feeling of desolate waste that seems to prevail over much of the city. Once a bustling hub and still the largest sea port in Colombia, this sprawling city somehow managed to miss the boat. Or maybe it just fell off somewhere along the way.
The hotel my dad had booked was in the historic old city, just a block from what appeared to be a beautiful cathedral full of stained glass. Unfortunately, this district's glory days were far gone. The hotel we stayed in had gorgeous tile work, arching colonnades, gilded ceilings and a picturesque lap pool with a sculpted crocodile keeping guard, but the room's mini fridge had dark stains of mold, the air conditioner was older than any of us, and, as luck would have it, the entire municipal water system was shut down for 24hrs. The street we stayed on was lined with gargantuan mansions with curved drives and ample gardens where weeds pushed through the asphalt and shuttered windows stared blankly at the passing cars.
When we tried to go see the cathedral in the morning, we walked the entire perimeter without encountering a single open entrance other than the patchwork of holes where intricate stain glass panels had been knocked out. Figuring there had to be something else to do in the city, we went across the street to a new-looking (and thankfully air conditioned) mall and asked around for a map of the city. We continued to ask around for a map for the following hour, entirely without success. Guess they don't get many tourists in these parts.
We finally had to give up the quest for a pictorial presentation of our new surrounds in favor of a long taxi ride north to the university. As we made our way up through the city, it became clear that much of the affluence is to be found in the newer districts of the northern sector. By the time we got to the Uninorte campus we had passed through the entire city and found ourselves looking out at the coast over a lush bed of foliage.
The afternoon turned out to be quite pleasant as we shared lunch with two lovely ladies with whom a friend had put us in touch. One of them had to take off early, but the other, who was young, bright and full of interesting stories, took us on a tour of the campus and told us all about their recent activities. An hour or so later she handed me off to the dean of the school of architecture, who explained that they had just opened the program and were wrapping up their very first semester. Curious to see what this entailed, I asked to see some of the student's work and was rewarded with a thorough presentation of a variety of projects from mosaics to sprinkler sculptures to single family homes.
By the time we got back into the city, it was nearly time for dinner, so we did not freshen up since there was no running water, but we did enjoy a few moments of cool air before deciding to try out a restaurant that the grocery announcer had recommended when we befriended him during our search for a map. We hailed a taxi, negotiated our price (there are no meters!) and headed off. Luckily, the driver knew the place we were looking for and drove us in past a slew of other restaurants, 2 of which were on our list of recommendations from various friends. Not wanting to miss out on the atmosphere, we checked out a few menus before deciding on the BBQ place we'd originally aimed for. Man, was that a good choice! We only ordered 2 full meals between the 3 of us, but we ended up taking home a stack of leftovers nonetheless. Everything was super tasty with new and intriguing combinations of flavors. On top of that, they also happened to have a TV in the corner, and were more than willing to switch it to the NBA playoffs at our request. 2 for 2 on catching the games!
Since it had become abundantly clear that there wasn't a whole lot to keep us in Barranquilla, we arranged for an early morning taxi to Cartagena on Friday. The ride out was quite scenic with the road winding through rainforest and occasionally offering glimpses of the shore we were paralleling. An hour or so later we rolled into what I believe is the oldest colonial city in Colombia (maybe in S.America?).
All around the historic core highrise apartments and luxury hotels dominate the landscape, but we had opted for a spot just outside the main walls, but still within the city center. Well, we thought we'd opted for that hotel, but there was a bit of a miscommunication and between the fact that they were asking double what we'd anticipated and that the 2nd bed I was to sleep on was really a cot set up at the bottom of the real bed, we decided we'd have to look again. While my mom guarded our luggage, my dad and I set out into the still unbelievably warm, sticky morning in search of a different abode. The first place we tried brought flashbacks to our days of backpacking in China and didn't seem quite like the relaxing weekend we were hoping for. Luckily, the second place we passed turned out to be quite quaint and have a suitable, if tiny room available. Just as we were about to take it, the proprietress mentioned they had a sister hotel around the corner that might suit use better for only a slightly higher price. Not wanted to turn down what could be a good option, we followed the doorman around the corner and were greeted with a lovely, large, clean, air conditioned room. They still didn't have hot water, but since the air temperature didn't seem to get below boiling, we figured we could handle that minor inconvenience.
Once we'd settled in and waited out the worst of the heat, we took a stroll into the old city, which is nearly entirely surrounded by a 39ft (10m) thick stone wall. Despite the oppressive heat, the city was quite stunning. Every turn yielded a new view or a pretty little square and the view from top of the wall was beautiful.
On the way out, we even managed to catch some dancing in the streets!
Annoyed with the restricted access and overly touristy set up, we gave up just as the sky turned pink. We quite happily enjoyed the pretty sunset over the water before heading back for some tasty grub and a good night's rest.
The next morning mom and I woke up early, bought our tickets, said not to all 5 hawkers who tried to solicit us with tickets on our way down to the dock, paid the dock fee, found the guy who was to get us on a fast boat, and took our seats. Over an hour later, after we had watched nearly every other boat in the area fill up and take off, we were finally on board.
One white-knuckled hour later we finally slowed down as we approached a series of small islands. Some islands were populated by homes built in every style imaginable while others were simply small stretches of beach with a few huts scattered about. As we pulled up to our destination, an island with an aquarium that apparently included a dolphin show, our volunteer guide informed us that we now had 3 options. We could pay 20,000COP (~$10) to go see the aquarium, walk the perimeter of the very small island for free, or pay another 25,000COP to stay on the boat and go snorkeling. A little peeved that there were more fees involved, but not particularly interested in walking around a tiny, overgrown island for an hour, we opted to stay on the boat.
They took us back around to a small bay we had passed on our way in, laid anchor and informed everyone that it didn't matter whether you could swim, or had ever snorkeled, they would be taking everyone on a 'guided tour' of the coral, some of which was rumored to change color if you touched it. After a short shouting match with a couple who had brought their own gear, and hence didn't feel that they should be paying any additional fees, we all hopped into the thigh-high water and tried out the masks we'd been given (there were no fins provided). As I got my mask on and swam about a little, I was minorly perturbed to see a large, spikey sea anemone only a few feet from where our host and directed us to jump down into the water. As I came up to check on mom, I found her struggling to keep water out of the mask she had been given. 10 tries later it was clear that the mask was defective, so we handed it back to the boatman and asked for a different one. He tried out the mask himself, realized it was broken, but didn't have any more in his boat. So, he solicited 2 nearby boats asking to swap it out. Neither was interested, so he turned back to us and informed us there was nothing wrong with the mask. Really?! Luckily we had brought along our own goggles in anticipation of some swimming, so mom switched out the mask for googles, kept the snorkel and we headed off.
As we started swimming we were greeted with gorgeous coral formations separated by sandy white shallows. Unfortunately, as we approached our group we came across several people standing and walking directly across the fragile formations. Others were hanging onto an orange life preserver ring while reaching out and attempting to touch the soft wavering tips of the coral below. Not wanting any part of such destruction and pretty sure we'd see a whole lot more the further we got from the swirling mass of bodies with whom we were supposed to be 'guided', we quickly chose the opposite direction and swam off on our own.
As soon as we got into a calmer section, we were rewarded with the sight of an enormous flounder resting peacefully on the sand. A few strokes away we spotted a large lobster just visible within it's rocky abode. Just when I thought it couldn't get much better, I looked down to see a small flounder who was nearly invisible lying on the white sand. In a flash it had moved off to a rockier section where to my surprise and delight dark spots began to appear on the flounders back and in a few seconds it was the exact shade and pattern of the place it had landed! We had definitely made the right choice when we opted for snorkeling.
Over the next hour or so we happily flitted about following deep canyons between coral mountains that come up to just inches below the surface. On the deeper side I spotted a huge silver fish that resembled a small shark who had gone through a laundry press. The thing was less than an inch thick over the whole length of it's 3 or 4 foot body. I followed for a bit until I lost him in a huge school of tuna lazing about dear the surface. When I had got my fill of the big game, I turned around to see a train of blue and yellow fish followed by hundreds of a smaller, less brilliant variety. The whole group was strung out over maybe 20 ft or so and the moved fluidly along, bumping up and down in rhythm with the coral formations below.
For as far as we could swim we were met with an abundance of life in every hue, size and shape imaginable. The only mar on this magnificent underwater experience were the numerous motorboats that brought droves of tourists right into the heart of this pristine wilderness only to plunk them down on top of the fragile existence they were so eager to see, leaving bald edges and broken limbs in their wake.
When we finally got back to the boat, elated and full of pretty images, we were not particularly shocked to see that nearly all our fellow travelers had cuts on their feet and violent red welts on their hands from their overly physical encounters with the wilderness below. Slightly vindicated but still a little sad to see that this wonderland has little chance of surviving in it's current awe inspiring state without severe changes in mentality, we soon found ourselves bouncing back across the water on the way to our final destination of the day, Playa Blanca. Everyone I had talked to in Medellin said this was the best beach around, and we were excited to see for ourselves.
The boat came around a point and there ahead of us was a sweeping arc of white sand for as far as the eye could see. Palm trees and coconuts marched along creating a waving green backdrop to the pretty blue ocean below. As we came a little closer, it became clear that nature was not the only inhabitant of this particular location. The minute the boat's nose touched the sand there were at least 30 hawkers swarming about trying to sell fresh oysters, massages, shell necklaces, piña coladas and anything else you could possibly imagine anyone might want.
Pushing through the crowds, we made our way to a series of wooden tables and benches laid out so we could consume a tasty meal of whole fish, rice and salad. The moment the last morsel had been swallowed, the troops moved in, poking and prodding, proffering and offering. It was clear there would not be much relaxing to be done on the shore, so we walked out a little ways and escaped into the ocean. The water was perfect, just on the coolly refreshing side with soft sand to dig your toes into.
Another short, bumpy ride brought us back to the city and a delicious seafood dinner. The following morning was our last in Cartagena, so we decided to check out the history museum, which happened to be housed in the former house of the Inquisition. The general history portion might have been more enthralling had they chosen to use the airconditioners installed in each room, or at the very least turned on the fans. As it was, the sweat was dripping so fast if was very hard to stand still and focus on the in depth history lessons displayed on each wall. However, the building itself was rather stunning, and the exhibit of the implements of the inquisition, though quite creepy was also rather fascinating.
That afternoon we caught a plane back to the blessedly cool hills of Medellín and were back home with just enough time to head out and catch the last half of that evening's bball game. Looking back on the trip, I certainly came away with mixed feelings about the notoriously enchanting city of Cartagena. On one hand the history, architecture, setting and surrounds of the city are all truly stunning. On the other hand, the blatant orientation towards tourism seems to have dampened some of the true spirit of the place. I'm very glad to have visited, but I can't say I'd jump at going back unless I had the privilege of being accompanied by someone familiar with the place who had their own car, or better yet, their own boat!
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Dance, Dance, Dance!
Over the past four days, I've had the privilege of viewing 3 distinctly different dance shows. This chain of events began on Wednesday night when I was presented with 2 free tickets to an event designed to raise funds for the Bolombolo community, and the ongoing development projects in the area. Since it was D's last night, we were more than thrilled to accept the invitation and were treated to a night of "Folkloric Ballet," which translates to a variety of traditional dances from all across Colombia with interludes of ballads sung live by a woman with an incredibly rich voice.
They probably did at least 10 different types of dance, and they were all fantastic. I was too busy enjoying to get snapshots of all they offered, but I did manage to snag a few clips to give you all an idea of the evening's entertainment. The shows ranged from beautiful to silly to sexy and everything in between!
On Friday night, a friend's dad was playing in a Flamingo band at the local brewery, so of course I had to go check that out! Apparently the brewery does concerts every 1st and 3rd Friday of the month. If they're anything like the one I saw this week, I'm most definitely going back!
The group was made up of a flutist, a guitarist, a stand up bass, a drummer and two singers/percussionists. The flutist and the female singer took turns getting up to show off their dance steps in traditional Flamingo style!
This was definitely the first time I had ever seen Flamingo music or dancing live, and until last night, I had been under the impression that it is exclusively a female dance. Boy, did the flutist prove that wrong!
The whole show was a riot of sharp percussion beats and haunting melodies. Flamingo is a truly beautiful and wildly energetic form of music, which kept us all enthralled and cheering loudly for the entire show. The fact that they give you 5 free beers with the $10 cover, and you only have a couple hours to drink them might have also helped ensure a properly festive mood!
After so much energy, there was no way we could call it a night, and it was soon determined that we would all head across town to a bar that I had yet to visit, but which turned out to be my new favorite. It's only been open a couple years, and is situated in a large old house, complete with an open air patio at the back. Compared to the other places I've been to dance in the city, this was incredibly spacious. There was a main dance floor about the size of the entire Tibiri bar, and several adjoining spaces that could be utilized by the dancers. The house atmosphere meant that there were also several side rooms where one could simply sit and enjoy a drink without being overrun by the more energetic members of the crowd. I have a feeling I will definitely be ending up there more than once in the months to come!
After a full night on Friday, Saturday proceeded rather slowly, but a friend had recently discovered a bar/restaurant that presents live tango music and dance every weekend. He'd already made reservations for Saturday, so despite the once again ominous skies, we headed out to the Patio of Tango in what is not exactly the best neighborhood in town. Hoping out of the taxi, we took our reserved table directly next to the stage, and sat back to enjoy another evening of live entertainment.
I apologize for not having good pictures or video of this particular event, but given the location, I wasn't particularly tempted to carry my camera around. My friend did manage to snap a few photos on his phone to give you a blurry picture of the place, but you'll just have to take my word for the fact that this was also a wonderful evening.
The performance shifted between the core musicians (who looked like they'd had an instrument in their hands for at least 50yrs each), the announcer/singer, two different pairs of dancers, and a pair of musicians visiting from Argentina. Much of the music was very traditional, and my friend and I were the youngest audience members by at least 20 yrs. However, one of the dance pairs were of the younger generation and they danced to more upbeat, modern renditions of the traditional songs. The couple from Argentina were truly fantastic and sang heart wrenching ballads filled with emotion and technical mastery.
I must say, I haven't been out to this many shows in such a short time for many, many years, but have been thoroughly content to experience it all. Don't know if I can keep up a pace like this, but something tells me the opportunities are not going anywhere. =)
They probably did at least 10 different types of dance, and they were all fantastic. I was too busy enjoying to get snapshots of all they offered, but I did manage to snag a few clips to give you all an idea of the evening's entertainment. The shows ranged from beautiful to silly to sexy and everything in between!
On Friday night, a friend's dad was playing in a Flamingo band at the local brewery, so of course I had to go check that out! Apparently the brewery does concerts every 1st and 3rd Friday of the month. If they're anything like the one I saw this week, I'm most definitely going back!
The group was made up of a flutist, a guitarist, a stand up bass, a drummer and two singers/percussionists. The flutist and the female singer took turns getting up to show off their dance steps in traditional Flamingo style!
This was definitely the first time I had ever seen Flamingo music or dancing live, and until last night, I had been under the impression that it is exclusively a female dance. Boy, did the flutist prove that wrong!
The whole show was a riot of sharp percussion beats and haunting melodies. Flamingo is a truly beautiful and wildly energetic form of music, which kept us all enthralled and cheering loudly for the entire show. The fact that they give you 5 free beers with the $10 cover, and you only have a couple hours to drink them might have also helped ensure a properly festive mood!
After so much energy, there was no way we could call it a night, and it was soon determined that we would all head across town to a bar that I had yet to visit, but which turned out to be my new favorite. It's only been open a couple years, and is situated in a large old house, complete with an open air patio at the back. Compared to the other places I've been to dance in the city, this was incredibly spacious. There was a main dance floor about the size of the entire Tibiri bar, and several adjoining spaces that could be utilized by the dancers. The house atmosphere meant that there were also several side rooms where one could simply sit and enjoy a drink without being overrun by the more energetic members of the crowd. I have a feeling I will definitely be ending up there more than once in the months to come!
After a full night on Friday, Saturday proceeded rather slowly, but a friend had recently discovered a bar/restaurant that presents live tango music and dance every weekend. He'd already made reservations for Saturday, so despite the once again ominous skies, we headed out to the Patio of Tango in what is not exactly the best neighborhood in town. Hoping out of the taxi, we took our reserved table directly next to the stage, and sat back to enjoy another evening of live entertainment.
I apologize for not having good pictures or video of this particular event, but given the location, I wasn't particularly tempted to carry my camera around. My friend did manage to snap a few photos on his phone to give you a blurry picture of the place, but you'll just have to take my word for the fact that this was also a wonderful evening.
The performance shifted between the core musicians (who looked like they'd had an instrument in their hands for at least 50yrs each), the announcer/singer, two different pairs of dancers, and a pair of musicians visiting from Argentina. Much of the music was very traditional, and my friend and I were the youngest audience members by at least 20 yrs. However, one of the dance pairs were of the younger generation and they danced to more upbeat, modern renditions of the traditional songs. The couple from Argentina were truly fantastic and sang heart wrenching ballads filled with emotion and technical mastery.
Sunday, May 22, 2011
Friday Finale
We had a morning in the countryside and an afternoon in the city, but the day was still young. On our journeys we had come across a flyer announcing a free performance of African rhythms and dance at a local community center. Didn't sound like something we should miss. So, after a good meal at home, we braved the rain and headed across the river to the Moravia Center for Cultural Development.
When we arrived, the place was teeming with people. Kids ran around the grounds, or used the computer lab, or learned to juggle, or practiced their break dancing while adults of all ages milled about chatting, teaching, or waiting for the show to begin.
The building itself was quite impressive as well, with open courtyards and layers of rooms for all kinds of purposes. The entire building and all the activities that happen there are completely free and open to the public. There were a few guidelines for respect posted on the walls, but otherwise it appeared as though this space was used much as a second home to the residents of the area.
We didn't have long to wait before learning why so many people had gathered on this particular evening. As the auditorium opened and the seats filled, we were greeted by the musical and dancing talents of Afrotronix. They group hailed from France and Canada with a focus on mixing African rhythms with electronic beats. Quite an interesting combination and one that did not fail to disappoint!
As the evening came to a close, we were informed that only about half the participants were actually from Afrotronix. The rest were local artists and residents who had been working with the visiting artists for the past week or so in order to put together this fantastic presentation of music and dance. The evening rounded out with an audience participation number where we finally got to get up out of our seats and enjoy the dance music with all the appropriate body gyrations.
By the time we got home, we were exhausted, but fantastically content. The day had held a little bit of everything, and each experience had only been better than the last!
When we arrived, the place was teeming with people. Kids ran around the grounds, or used the computer lab, or learned to juggle, or practiced their break dancing while adults of all ages milled about chatting, teaching, or waiting for the show to begin.
The building itself was quite impressive as well, with open courtyards and layers of rooms for all kinds of purposes. The entire building and all the activities that happen there are completely free and open to the public. There were a few guidelines for respect posted on the walls, but otherwise it appeared as though this space was used much as a second home to the residents of the area.
We didn't have long to wait before learning why so many people had gathered on this particular evening. As the auditorium opened and the seats filled, we were greeted by the musical and dancing talents of Afrotronix. They group hailed from France and Canada with a focus on mixing African rhythms with electronic beats. Quite an interesting combination and one that did not fail to disappoint!
As the evening came to a close, we were informed that only about half the participants were actually from Afrotronix. The rest were local artists and residents who had been working with the visiting artists for the past week or so in order to put together this fantastic presentation of music and dance. The evening rounded out with an audience participation number where we finally got to get up out of our seats and enjoy the dance music with all the appropriate body gyrations.
By the time we got home, we were exhausted, but fantastically content. The day had held a little bit of everything, and each experience had only been better than the last!
Saturday, May 21, 2011
Further Fun on Friday
By the time we got down off the mountain and back into the city, our tummies were grumbling. I still had a little bit of time before that meeting started, so we stopped of in the city center and perused the streets for something tasty. We ended up walking around in the heart of the commercial district where row upon row of shops sells everything from doorknobs to bustiers, but apparently very little food. By the time we had found somewhere to eat and were plowing through a massive pantacon, it had gotten too late to make it to my meeting on time. However, by that point, I was thoroughly enjoying being out on the town during a weekday, and figured I might do better actually seeing the city than just listening to people talk about it. So, we set out through the light drizzle that had commenced and were greeted with exciting architecture and wonderful examples of well designed public space.
As we walked through the towering government buildings, there were people everywhere and works of art scattered across the square.
And to one side was a conspicuous little house that looked strikingly out of place in the middle of such grand structures. However, the strangely familiar design soon struck a cord and I realized I was staring at a prototype of the the government houses I'd been instructed to use for the urban planning project I'd been working on in Bolombolo! Sometimes this city really does feel like a small town. =)
From there, we wound through a series of plazas and walking streets admiring the myriad of public art, public spaces and public buildings that comprise this area of town.
I really can't think of a single city in the US that has anywhere near the percentage of public space that I've found here in Medellin. Not only are there small parks dotted through the city, but there are huge plazas, and walking streets, and gardens, and playgrounds, and so much more. It's true that there are some neighborhoods where this is most definitely not the case, but the government understands the importance of providing not only housing and workplaces, but places of connection and recreation and relaxing and partying and play. They've already proven the power of transformation that can come from carefully integrated, well designed, and well supported public projects, but they're still intent on spreading that power to as many areas of the city as humanly possible.
Incredibly inspiring.
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| A four story mall we stumbled into with a huge central atrium and funky angles. |
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| Park of Lights_randomly scattered spires evoke the feeling of a forest and light up in a magical display at night |
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| Government square, "Monument to the Race" |
And to one side was a conspicuous little house that looked strikingly out of place in the middle of such grand structures. However, the strangely familiar design soon struck a cord and I realized I was staring at a prototype of the the government houses I'd been instructed to use for the urban planning project I'd been working on in Bolombolo! Sometimes this city really does feel like a small town. =)
From there, we wound through a series of plazas and walking streets admiring the myriad of public art, public spaces and public buildings that comprise this area of town.
 |
| Plaza Mayor |
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| Barefoot Park |
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| Bamboo grove at Barefoot Park |
Incredibly inspiring.
Monday, May 16, 2011
Fantastic Friday
Having completed all my current tasks by about 4pm on Thursday, and being informed that I couldn't meet with my boss until Monday for further instructions, I quite happily gave myself Friday morning off and tentatively agreed to attend a meeting of tangential interest in the afternoon. Not wanting to waste such a precious gift, D and I decided to make the most of it.
Waking up early, we made our way to the metro and rode out to the north end of town. With less than a week until D departs for the US and nice weather for a change, we had decided to head to Park Arvi and see if we couldn't get a bit of a feel for the nature preserve. Remember how I said I unfortunately forgot my camera last time I took this ride? Well, I'm gonna make up for that right now.
It dawned a little grey, but without the ominous rain clouds we've become accustomed to around here. Fortunately, in this particular instance, that made the journey all the more interesting.
As we crept up the hillside in the morning light, everything started to fade from view until all that could be seen were the floating metro boxes slowly appearing and disappearing in the mist.
A few moments later we emerged from the mist as we crested the hill and were greeted with a beautiful view of rolling forested hills for as far as we could see.
The car swung gently over the landscape as we drifted along towards our destination. Everything but us was still for miles and miles around. Quite a surreal feeling, which, assuming this video uploads correctly, I'm hoping you can all share.
About 20 minutes after boarding the metrocable extension, we were dropped off at the yet-to-be-finished welcome center were we bought a tasty traditional snack and inquired as to where we might encounter some horses for hire. =)
Since at this point I was still planning to attend a meeting in the afternoon, we didn't have a whole lot of time to explore, so we figured we'd have some fun and cover a little more ground all at once. After a little bit of wandering and lots of asking, we were soon situated atop our new friends for the next couple hours.
We were informed that we couldn't go off on our own, so our guide mounted up with us and we let him lead the way. For the next hour or so we rode through the forest along logging trails until we came to a pretty little clearing with a happily bubbling brook coursing though it. Dismounting to stretch our legs and explore, we follows the brook far enough to realize we should probably come back on a warm day with a whole day to waste in order to enjoy the place properly.
Instead, we soaked up as much as we could in our short stay and then headed back out to our 4 legged friends who happily trotted us back to the metrocable.
By the time we made it back to the metro, we were treated to beautiful blue skies and a gorgeous ride down.
Not a bad way to start the day!
Waking up early, we made our way to the metro and rode out to the north end of town. With less than a week until D departs for the US and nice weather for a change, we had decided to head to Park Arvi and see if we couldn't get a bit of a feel for the nature preserve. Remember how I said I unfortunately forgot my camera last time I took this ride? Well, I'm gonna make up for that right now.
It dawned a little grey, but without the ominous rain clouds we've become accustomed to around here. Fortunately, in this particular instance, that made the journey all the more interesting.
As we crept up the hillside in the morning light, everything started to fade from view until all that could be seen were the floating metro boxes slowly appearing and disappearing in the mist.
A few moments later we emerged from the mist as we crested the hill and were greeted with a beautiful view of rolling forested hills for as far as we could see.
The car swung gently over the landscape as we drifted along towards our destination. Everything but us was still for miles and miles around. Quite a surreal feeling, which, assuming this video uploads correctly, I'm hoping you can all share.
About 20 minutes after boarding the metrocable extension, we were dropped off at the yet-to-be-finished welcome center were we bought a tasty traditional snack and inquired as to where we might encounter some horses for hire. =)
Since at this point I was still planning to attend a meeting in the afternoon, we didn't have a whole lot of time to explore, so we figured we'd have some fun and cover a little more ground all at once. After a little bit of wandering and lots of asking, we were soon situated atop our new friends for the next couple hours.
We were informed that we couldn't go off on our own, so our guide mounted up with us and we let him lead the way. For the next hour or so we rode through the forest along logging trails until we came to a pretty little clearing with a happily bubbling brook coursing though it. Dismounting to stretch our legs and explore, we follows the brook far enough to realize we should probably come back on a warm day with a whole day to waste in order to enjoy the place properly.
Instead, we soaked up as much as we could in our short stay and then headed back out to our 4 legged friends who happily trotted us back to the metrocable.
By the time we made it back to the metro, we were treated to beautiful blue skies and a gorgeous ride down.
Not a bad way to start the day!
Friday, May 13, 2011
Edible Fun
I know I haven't talked much about the food here, but that's because I keep thinking it deserves it's own entry and hence I keep putting it off. However, it's time to put that aside and tell you that almost everything I've eaten here has been delicious! I'm sure I still have lots of things to try, but so far I've encountered several 'traditional' items that I thought you all might like to hear about:
_Arepa: kinda like a cross between a tortilla and a pancake, these can be made from either flour or cornmeal and are served with nearly everything. They can also be their own meal when piled high with meet, veggies, guacamole and pretty much anything else you might like.
_Cazuela: a stew-like dish with a base of beans that are then smothered in corn, meat, cheese, potato strips, and any number of other goodies depending on where you're eating.
_Mondongo: a soup traditionally made with cow stomach, ...um...and lots of other things I don't remember at the moment because I was focused on the chewy stomach bits. Was super yummy other than those parts, and is served with rice, avocado and banana, all of which you scoop up together while you're slurping up your stew.
_Pantacones: Squashed plantains fried in oil and served with various toppings. These are what I really want to talk about since I had the pleasure of learning how to cook them the other night. We had invited a friend over for dinner and mentioned that we'd like to learn some Colombian cooking, so that's what we got. Really quite a simple recipe, but oh so much more delicious when made fresh at home. For those of you coming to visit, I'd be happy to show off my newly acquired knowledge with an edible exhibit. For the rest of you, you'll just have to make do with a couple mouth watering pictures.
_Arepa: kinda like a cross between a tortilla and a pancake, these can be made from either flour or cornmeal and are served with nearly everything. They can also be their own meal when piled high with meet, veggies, guacamole and pretty much anything else you might like.
_Cazuela: a stew-like dish with a base of beans that are then smothered in corn, meat, cheese, potato strips, and any number of other goodies depending on where you're eating.
_Mondongo: a soup traditionally made with cow stomach, ...um...and lots of other things I don't remember at the moment because I was focused on the chewy stomach bits. Was super yummy other than those parts, and is served with rice, avocado and banana, all of which you scoop up together while you're slurping up your stew.
_Pantacones: Squashed plantains fried in oil and served with various toppings. These are what I really want to talk about since I had the pleasure of learning how to cook them the other night. We had invited a friend over for dinner and mentioned that we'd like to learn some Colombian cooking, so that's what we got. Really quite a simple recipe, but oh so much more delicious when made fresh at home. For those of you coming to visit, I'd be happy to show off my newly acquired knowledge with an edible exhibit. For the rest of you, you'll just have to make do with a couple mouth watering pictures.
City Sunday
After such a busy week, which included all of Saturday, there was very little incentive to make big plans for the weekend, so D and I decided we'd go spend Sunday at the Park Explora which is a hands on science museum with an aquarium, lots of reptiles and all sorts of cool toys. Since it was mother's day we didn't expect the place to be too packed, as most people spend time at home or in the country for this particular holiday. So, we had a lazy morning with a yummy brunch before catching a taxi across the river.
I had had the luxury of a brief tour of the building a few days before when my boss (who designed the place) took us through the back door so that our conference guest could get a feel for the place. However, that had only really served to wet my appetite even more as we scampered quickly through a couple exhibits and back out the front door. This time around I was determined to enjoy everything the place had to offer.
The first discovery, situated in the upper plaza, was pretty sweet:
Take a real close look at that photo...what appears to be nonsensical swirls in a vaguely artistic pattern reflects into familiar faces on the vertical metal pole in the center. Like I said, pretty sweet!
All around the front of the museum are various little things to entice people and give children a place to play. This means that the square is always full of people.
We skipped excitedly down the ramp to the ticket booth, anticipating an entertaining afternoon. Only, when we got there, all the windows were closed and the guard kindly informed us that the place was closed for maintenance today. =(
Quite shaken but determined not to be let down, we crossed to the street to see if maybe we could snag a show at the planetarium. Also closed. =(
But, the scene out front was rather priceless.
Bummed to miss the museums, but equipped with a picnic lunch, we retired to the botanical gardens for a more mellow afternoon. As we were enjoying our food beside the lake, we heard a bit of a commotion and suddenly saw the tree above us begin to shake. Apparently we had an uninvited, but adorably cute guest.
This little guy, who was no more than a foot long, hung out for a good ten minutes before the screaming children finally scared him off. As we were left in peace to finish our meal, I heard a few notes that sounded as though there might be a concert occurring in the Orchidrama, so we finished up, bought some kettle corn and headed in. We were not disappointed. Not only was there a concert, but it was a chamber music group performing Tango music with various invited guests.
Now, I know the picture doesn't do them justice, so I very diligently recorded an entire song in order to share with all of you. Unfortunately, I recorded in a format that my computer does not currently recognize, so due to technical difficulties, you're'll just gonna have to use your imagination for now. Hopefully I'll sort that issue out soon so I can share properly.
However, after being thoroughly disappointed by the closure of the Park Explora, we ended up spending an incredibly enjoyable afternoon lazing about the gardens listening to excellent music. Gotta say, I really love this city!
Oh, and on the way out...I stopped by to use the bathroom and was shocked to discover it happened to be one of the coolest, most beautiful restrooms I have ever come across.
The first discovery, situated in the upper plaza, was pretty sweet:
All around the front of the museum are various little things to entice people and give children a place to play. This means that the square is always full of people.
Quite shaken but determined not to be let down, we crossed to the street to see if maybe we could snag a show at the planetarium. Also closed. =(
But, the scene out front was rather priceless.
Bummed to miss the museums, but equipped with a picnic lunch, we retired to the botanical gardens for a more mellow afternoon. As we were enjoying our food beside the lake, we heard a bit of a commotion and suddenly saw the tree above us begin to shake. Apparently we had an uninvited, but adorably cute guest.
However, after being thoroughly disappointed by the closure of the Park Explora, we ended up spending an incredibly enjoyable afternoon lazing about the gardens listening to excellent music. Gotta say, I really love this city!
Oh, and on the way out...I stopped by to use the bathroom and was shocked to discover it happened to be one of the coolest, most beautiful restrooms I have ever come across.
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